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New York Magazine
Grub Street - New York Magazine's Food and Restaurant Blog: "America the Burgerful"
January 17, 2007
Foodar - 11:00am
Author: Josh Ozersky
Read this article online at nymag.com
 
 

By a happy coincidence, two videos, both demonstrating the breadth of the human experience as encompassed by the mighty but still humble hamburger, have just turned up on the Web. In one, artist David Greg Harth stands in front of a Greenwich Village McDonald's offering to buy random pedestrians a free meal. Banal performance "happening," in which a trustafarian art student spends his grant money? Maybe. But a mere eleven minutes in, angry cops, sicced on the hapless Harth by the corporate behemoth he so obliquely critiques, rush the video to its disturbing but somehow inevitable dénouement. Meanwhile, Serious Eats is showing a clip from George Motz's Hamburger America documentary, featuring a kindly old soul in Meers, Oklahoma, who lovingly raises heritage Texas longhorn cattle only to slaughter and then serve the beasts in his roadside restaurant. One video's a portrait of a gentle man tending to a disappearing culture; the other, a gritty look at corporate culture's hard, paradoxical realities. And yet neither would not have been possible without that patty-shaped embodiment of American culture. Another reason to love your hamburgers, America.